Restaurant Review: Pizzeria Pulcinella

Pizzeria Pulcinella is a Italian memory brought right into present day. But wait, its in Rainier Beach of all places! In a way, it makes it even more fun, a real "find" and an evening's destination. The owner, Vince Mottola Jr., was a part of some of my earliest restaurant experience. Vince's Italian Restaurant is a tradition in the grubby (but up and coming I swear!) town of Burien, where I grew up. Started by Vince Sr in 1957, its a classic American Italian restaurant with red and white checked tablecloths and all the usual suspects on the menu. I have to say, I personally don't recommend it. Italian food in America has come a long way since Vince's heyday and Vince Jr. gets that. With Pizzeria Pulcinella, his quest was not to make an Americanized version of Italian food, but to do true, authentic Neopolitan pizza, and he has succeeded.

The restaurant has a great feel to it. A big open room with high ceilings, tile floor, the pizza station and wood-burning oven right in the center. As soon as I went through the doors my excitement went through the roof, I love the look of the place. Vince's adorable blond wife, who lovingly attends the host stand, could sense it immediately and gave us the best two seats in the house. They're at the bar, facing the door, right in front of the pizza station. I loved that because it was awesome to talk to the pizzaiolo and learn some tips and tricks. We did it "wine lunch" style (though it was dinner time) - just a pitcher of cold crisp white wine and pizza. The menu has pasta as well, but who are they kidding? We know what we're here for!

We ordered two pies. the Vomero, with tomato, mozzarella, prosciutto, and arugula and the Vesuvio, with tomato, mozzarella, sausage, and red onion. They were the stuff of dreams. The crust was just lightly crisp with a little blackening on the bottom (very important!) and nicely chewy with a hint of yeastiness. San Marzano tomato sauce follows and the brightness and acidity of these little gems makes such an enormous difference in the overall effect. The mozzarella used is the fresh milk variety. My favorite of the two, the Vomero, is baked with just the tomato and mozzarella and then topped with the prosciutto and arugula after baking. The Vesuvio was also delicious and I loved the addition of red onion, which had been roasted to bring out its sweetness.

For dessert, we ordered cannoli, which was a first for Zack. Crispy pastry shell filled with marscapone cheese dotted with tiny chunks of chocolate - wickedly delicious and washed down with a dark mahogany shot of coffee.

It was a wonderful meal. A perfect staycation meal. We got to travel to Italy with our tastebuds. I'm going to reserve judgement on a Golden Piglet for this because I've only been once, but I think it could easily get there. Most assuredly, it IS the best neopolitan wood-fired pizza in Seattle.