Thursday, November 19, 2009
Suzi's Roast Turkey
My mother-in-law is a wonderful cook and gracious hostess. She not only makes delicious things but she is unfailingly generous with her skills. She makes many things, especially for the holidays, which I look forward to every year. I'll be posting at least one more of these in the coming month. A few years back, I had her roast turkey for the first time and was totally hooked. But it seemed somewhat complex and while Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday and I plan for it with a passion bordering on the absurd, the bird is never my greatest focus. I think I was pretty resigned to it being a little dry and a little bland no matter what concoction I rubbed it with, injected it with and so forth. Suzi's turkey however, had a truly moist breast. That is the part I most remember and desired to replicate. Moist, more like cutting into beef tenderloin. Perhaps time has caused the memories to plump a bit, but I'm confident that her bird was the best I've had.
So, for my bi-weekly women's Bible study/dinner party the theme was Thanksgiving Test Kitchen and I decided to give Suzi's bird method a try. It really is a method more than a recipe and I thought the results were excellent. First, a couple things you should know. One - it wasn't as good as hers, but it WAS moist and better than any bird I personally had made before. Two - This is no fancy free-range fresh turkey. This was an 11 lb, 27 cents a lb bird from Safeway. I am not about to spend $60 on a fresh expensive bird when I can get one for $2.97 and it tastes this good. I know, how terribly NOT politically correct I am! Not that I have any problem with those that buy the expensive boutique birds, but I'll do my eating local from the produce table at my Farmer's market, where I can really taste the difference in the end product and it doesn't break the bank. Okay, back to the matter at hand.
First, start by soaking your turkey in brine. For the science behind why this is a great idea, check this out, but simply, brining your turkey forces salt and flavor into its cells, which allows the turkey to be flavored from the inside and not just during roasting with whatever you put on or under the turkey's skin.
Full-Flavored Roast Turkey
Adapted from USA Weekend magazine, from Suzi Hubert's warm and cozy kitchen.
Start this process 15-18 hours prior to roasting. And don't forget to put your turkey in the fridge 48 hours before that, if it's a frozen one. The total roasting time for a 11 - 14 lb turkey by this method will be 2.5 - 3 hours. Do not stuff your bird, it will dry it out and extend the cooking time by quite a lot. Allow 25 minutes for the bird to rest before carving. Don't cover it when its resting! It will decrease skin crispness and cause it to overcook.
Special Equipment: A roasting pan with a V-rack (easy to get at Fred Meyer, Target, all over) and a meat thermometer
STEP 1: Turkey Tea - Here is the one divergence I did from Suzi. Adds more flavor to the brine.
20-25 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
2 tbl dried thyme
2 tbl fresh sage
2 cups boiling water
Allow the herbs to steep in the hot water for 30 minutes or so.
STEP 2: Brine
1 1/2 cups kosher salt
3/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 gallons of cold water
Turkey Tea
1 turkey (thawed, giblet bag, neck and tail removed)
Mix water, sugar and salt together until dissolved. Add your cooled turkey tea and your turkey - breast side down. You'll need a 5 gallon bucket or very large stockpot for this. Put this in fridge now for 15-18 hours. OR, like I did, pour 2 cups of ice over the turkey and put it in your garage if you're doing this overnight and the temperature is going to be 45 degrees or below. Cover the pot and don't worry, it will be fine.
STEP 3: Roasting
Remove your turkey from the brine, rinse thoroughly with cool water and pat very dry. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees and place oven rack on the lowest position.
2 medium onions, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped
3 tbl butter, melted
grey salt or kosher salt
Loosely stuff the cavity with 1/2 the chopped onion, carrot and celery. Scatter the rest on the bottom of the roasting dish under the V-rack. Add 1-2 cups of water to the pan, depending on how large it is. This helps the vegetables not burn. They are there to improve the flavor of the drippings.
Tie the turkey legs together and secure the wings, with kitchen twine wrapped around the bird. Now, place V-rack in the roasting pan and place turkey breast side DOWN, on V-rack. Brush back and sides with melted butter. Sprinkle generously with grey salt and fresh cracked pepper. Place in oven now and roast for 50 minutes.
Remove pan from oven, close oven door. Baste turkey's back with drippings. Now, with two towels, turn the turkey until it is on its side with one leg and wing up. This is why you need the V-roaster. Brush the exposed side with melted butter. Sprinkle generously with grey salt and fresh cracked pepper and place it back in the oven for 20 minutes.
Remove pan from oven, close oven door. Turn the turkey over so the opposite side is up. Brush the exposed side with melted butter. Sprinkle generously with grey salt and fresh cracked pepper and place it back in the oven for 20 minutes.
For the third time, remove turkey from oven, close door. Turn turkey breast side up and baste with drippings, melted butter and sprinkle with grey salt and fresh cracked pepper. Roast for 40 more minutes.
Remove the bird and check its temperature with a meat thermometer into the breast, but not all the way to the bone - just right into the meat about 1 inch down. You are looking for a temperature of 162-165. When you are there, remove the turkey and let rest. If you are not, put it in for 5-10 more minutes depending on how far you are away.
NOTE: My cooking times were for a 11 lb bird. Yours could very likely be bigger. You'll need to adjust, probably 30 minutes longer total time for a 14 lb one. The cooking of the turkey doesn't happen in a linear fashion. There is a point in the roasting of the bird where it starts to heat exponentially as it reaches doneness. So you could take it out after 2.5 hours and the breast could be at 150 and 15 minutes later it could be at 160-165, which is when you want to take it out. So watch it closely in the 15 minutes to ensure you don't overdo it. Use your kitchen timer!
As for serving portions, I think a 11 lb bird serves 8 people with plenty of back meat left for soups and leftovers.
The reasons for doing your turkey this way are many. The brining adds moisture and flavor, roasting it upside down keeps the most sensitive part of the turkey - the breast - from becoming overdone and too dry, and rotating the bird has the effect of establishing brown crusty skin all over the bird, which seals in moisture but also tastes delicious.
I hope someone gives this method a try, or I just spent way too much time retyping this recipe!
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Thank you!!!! for posting this! I cant wait to chat about it more! it looks beeeautiful
ReplyDeleteOkay! This was THE BEST turkey I've ever had! I followed this recipe to a tee however I ended up adding about 10 minutes extra cooking time because my temp was just about at 158 and I wanted it at 165.
ReplyDeleteBecause I was keeping it in the oven longer I didnt want to brown the breast skin too much to I put a peice of tin foil over it for just a few minutes (I didnt wrap it in foil, I just draped it over the top of the bird)
Also, every time I rotated the bird I would baste it, smother it with more butter and lots of salt (I mixed some fresh herbs with my salt which added such a nice flavor) I believe the butter gives your turkey that excellent brown skin.
Other than those few changes I followed everything exact, and boy were my guests pleased! I had Jordan watch the Alton Brown turkey carving 101 video on the Food Network channel and it was so easy and he did a perfect job at the keeping the skin on each bite of turkey.
Thanks again Julie for sharing Suzie's recipe and for all of your help along the way! This bird made our thanksgiving so special!
In. cred. i. ble. Seriously.
ReplyDeleteI also followed the recipe to a tee and it was amaaaaaazing. For the brining I ended up using a brining bag and making room in my fridge. I put it in a cooler, in the basement to start, but I was worried that it wasn't cool enough, so we moved it to the fridge. Also, in the middle of the night I worried that the turkey itself wasn't sitting in the brining bag correctly. Like it should have been breast down as though the turkey were head down in the brine (sorry for that image) but instead it was breast down as though the feet were on the bottom. Does that make sense? Anyway, it didn't matter cause it was amazing.
This is the first time I have ever made a turkey and my guests kept saying over and over that it was the most perfect turkey they had ever seen or tasted. It was an 11 pound turkey so I followed the recipe exactly, even down to the time. When I took her out at the end the temp was 162 so I let it be. Perfection!!!
It was an intense experience. I mean, pulling that neck out...wow. That was a long neck. TMI?! Seriously though; super! Oh! And I bought my v-rack at Bed Bath and Beyond - 10 bucks. And I used dish towels to flip the bird; perfectly easy.
I hope to get to make this turkey for many years to come. Thanks Julie and Suzi!!!
I like the idea of the turkey tea to add flavour. I've done three brined turkeys on the bbq over the years using apple juice instead of the water.
ReplyDeleteI did find the quality of the turkey made a difference. Fresh, not frozen was very important. The frozen bird was better than a non brined bird, but... nothing close to the fresh, non frozen bird. The free range bird was the best, but you could argue that it didn't make a $1.10 per pound difference.
The bbq also allows you to add some apple or pecan wood smoke.
One important note, do not brine a Butterball or already seasoned turkey, you will overdose on the salt. The type of salt also makes a difference. For the amount of water you used, the correct amount of salt would be 1 1/2 cups Diamond Crystal brand, 1 1/8 cups Morton and 3/4 cup of table salt(YUK). The difference is in the size of crystals, but all of these salts would have the same mass (weight).
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