A Week of New York Eats

I am in good company when I say that I love New York.  Many, okay, millions of people agree, it is an epic city.  For those who find food and restaurants of particular interest, it is a magical place, with options from every corner of the globe.  This July, through a wonderful series of fortunate events, I was able to spend five days and nights in New York City with by little brother Andrew and his lovely new bride Melissa.  Our time was a culinary odyssey, with each day jam packed with tastes and ambiance to absorb.  Andrew & Mel join me in being insatiable (when we choose to be) and we never missed an opportunity to try something that intrigued us.  We also virtually never have a full meal in any particular place,  so we aren't too full for the next thing.  New York is also an awesome city to run.  I enjoyed the unusual levels of energies I felt given all this feasting and ran the longest run of my life one morning - from Harlem to Battery Park and back up to Chinatown, nearly 16 miles in all, stopping 3-4 times for a taste or a sip of something lovely.

Rather than write a bunch of reviews or try to pare the trip down to a couple favorites (too hard!), I offer you here a journal of our days.  I've noted the name, (and sometimes linked it) what we ate, a few choice comments, and starred them as follows so you know my recommendations, with a few comments.  There is not a place we went that I would say "Don't go there", because I research and cross-reference the heck out of places before I go, but the stars let you know what I prioritize as best.  I'm writing this blog for your future reference.  It may be a little dry to read now, as its really just a list, but next time you're headed to the Big Apple and you start your research, maybe you'll remember this post and check back.  I hope it can be a resource!

KEY:
*Good, I liked it
**Really, really good
***Highest level, recommended foodie experience

MONDAY
Red Rooster: Harlem soul food by Marcus Samuelson
Eataly***: Charcuterie counter - Mario Batali's department store temple to all things Italian food, hard to know what to actually eat, but just soak it in.
Shake Shack (Madison Square Park location)**: Shake stack burger,  a concrete (like a high-end blizzard) - NYC Classic, really an awesome gooey good burger.
Kin Shop***: Massaman Goat curry, Roast duck with roti, Crispy pork belly and fried oyster salad - the best Thai food I've ever eaten, by chef Harold Dieterle.  Reminded me a bit of Pok Pok in Portland. WOW.

TUESDAY
Francois Payard: Vanilla bean macaron
Sullivan Street Bakery**: Raisin walnut roll - Here, Jim Lahey invented the No Knead bread method so many of us benefit from.  This stop was part pilgrimage.  Simple spot, tons of awesome breads and pastries to take-away.
Economy Candy: Classic Lower Eastside shop to take you back to childhood.
Katz**:  Pastrami on rye - Classic NYC, and it lives up to all the hype.  Amazing sandwich.  Andrew and I having a moment.  Like sister, like brother.

Schiller Liquor Bar: liquid refreshment, hipster spot to stop in the LES for a drink.
Russ and Daughters**: Bagel, scallion cream cheese and Gaspe Nova smoked salmon - NYC Classic
Crif Dogs*: Housemade corn dogs and PBR - This is one of the places that restarted the gourmet hot dog craze.  Better known for the cocktail bar attached, called PDT.
Chickalicious***: Nutella and Red Velvet Cupcakes - There is MUCH disagreement about the best cupcakes in NYC.  I truly believe these must be, as they are the best I've eaten anywhere.  Other-wordly Italian Meringue frosting.  The texture is unreal.
Bar Boulud*: Charcuterie and Pate Platter - Wine bar brought to you by the legendary Daniel Boulud, very sleek ambiance and these were tasty nibbles.
Marea***: Fusilli with red wine braised octopus and bone marrow - This was one of the unforgettable restaurant experiences of my life.  A 2 Michelin star, $$$$ restaurant that graciously let us join them in their dining room for just one dish.  This pasta is a NYC legend and with good reason.

WEDNESDAY
Two Red Hens:  Mini banana cupcake - sweet Upper East Side Bakery, not too far from The Met.
Champagne Bar at the Plaza Hotel*: French 75 - Feels amazing to sit here.  Soak in the history and a taste of old school opulence.

ABC Kitchen** - Roasted Beets with housemade yogurt, Crispy skate salad, Pretzel dusted calamari - Wonderful interior design and delicious fresh food.

Metropolitan Museum: Total bonus, military families get in free!  We spent a very rainy hour or two exploring.
EAT:  Eli Zabars famous lemon meringue cake - You need cake after all that culture.
Cafe Ollin**: Beef Milanese, potato and cactus Chemita, Tacos, Carnitas Sopa - I don't know if you'll find yourself in East Harlem on your travels, but if you do, this is incredible, rustic NON-American Mexican food.


THURSDAY
16 Mile run day - started in Harlem and stopped at the following 3 places on the way to Battery Park.
Joe the Art of Coffee*:  Cappucino - It is hard to find good coffee in NYC.  This is true.  This place is pretty good and pretty great for NYC.
Momofuku Milk Bar: Cereal milk soft serve, Compost cookie - This place is famous but it just didn't do it for me.  The flavors lacked depth and read as just SWEET.  Shocking complaint coming from someone who likes circus peanuts candy mallows, but its true.
Locanda Verde*:  Strawberry jam scone - Open for every meal, love the ambiance and concept.  Current NYC Italian food darling.
Battery Park, rest and turn around, running through Wall Street area back up to Chinatown in search of dumpling.  No cash in Chinatown means, nothing for you to eat!  Headed back to Harlem on the Subway to get ready to go to lunch with Mel & Drew.
Prune**:  English muffin burger, sous chef salad - This postage stamp of a restaurant has a legendary owner and chef named Gabrielle Hamilton.  Her book Blood Bones & Butter is an awesome food and life memoir.  The food was wonderful and it was very special to eat here. 
Balthazar**: Balthazar salad, Blue Point Oysters on the half shell - NYC Classic that takes you straight to Paris.  I always stop here once.
Momofuku Noodle Bar*:  Glazed Pork Belly buns, Corn with cojita, lime and aioli, Momofuku Ramen, A mushroom dish - NYC legend David Chang's first spot.  The first two items were A-MAZing.  The 2nd two did not.  In particular, the ramen lacked depth of flavor in the broth, which is sad given its eponymous nature.  Comfort and ambiance are lacking, but unique, bursting flavors are not, just be careful in ordering.

Stroll across the Brooklyn Bridge to take in an outdoor movie on the other side.  Oops, it started raining.  Oh well!

FRIDAY
Barney Greengrass:  Smoked Salmon, cream cheese, everything bagel - Another classic NYC deli - Upper Eastside - good, but not as good as Russ & Daughters.
Shanghai Cafe**:  Famous soup dumplings, lo mein, pork fried dumplings - This $25 stop provided some of the boldest flavors of the trip.  Love how Asian food so often does that.

Chelsea Market***: This place is chock full of gourmet food purveyors of every kind, like more than 40.  It would be DREAMY to live across the street.
Standard Grill:  Lambrusco and cheese - A brief stop to get out of the pouring rain.  This classic spot is under the High Line and reminded me how good Lambrusco can be.  Would love to go back to try more from the menu.
Frankie's Spuntino**:  House made Brown butter & sage Cavatelli with hot Italian sausage, Burrata with arugula - This place makes just fantastic, simple Italian food.  2nd time here and loved it again.

Magnolia Bakery: Hummingbird cake, cupcakes - This place is the most famous cupcake bakery in NYC and really started the trend, but it is not the best.
A Salt and Battery:  Fried pollock - A famous take-out spot in Greenwich Village run by legit Brits.  Tasty fish & chips.