Chocolate Bourbon Toffee Cookies

One of the most universal pleasures of life is savoring food.  It is never most fully appreciated alone, but within relationship it is a powerful force.  In the past couple weeks, I've had many menu decisions to make, but one that is very dear to me involves Zack.  I don't take these choices lightly, because I believe they really matter.  Every six weeks he leaves his home office in Ballard to spend the week working with his company of coworkers near Carlsbad, California.  These are great people and this is a blessed job.  It matters a lot to me to send him with treats that are special.  Treats that show these people he rarely sees how much we appreciate them.  Baking and cooking is not an routine endeavor.  It is my love language,  and as a result, one of OUR love languages as a couple.  For Zack's one year anniversary with the company they sent us treats.  One of the items was chocolate covered, almond crusted toffee squares (Zack loves toffee).  I decided to re-commission them into cookie stuffings and this is the recipe I came up with.  It's a Zulie original.  The response from his coworkers this week has been strong, so I knew I needed to write up a recipe to share.

CHOCOLATE BOURBON TOFFEE COOKIES
Makes 16-24 cookies, depending on size

Note:  I used milk chocolate and almond covered toffee from Shari's Berries, but I realize I wont often have that lying around.  Skor bars would be the most readily available substitution, though many companies make a chocolate covered toffee, so just use what you like and/or the best you can find.  Almond Roca would work awesome too!

For the Cookie dough
1/2 cup butter, softened
1 cup dark brown sugar
1 large egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon bourbon
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
about 5 oz chocolate covered toffee candy (such as Skor bars or almond roca), chopped
1/2 cup chopped toasted pecans or almonds (or not, if your toffee candy already has a nutty crust)
Maldon Smoked Salt flakes or other smoked salt

For the ganache swirl
1/4 cup heavy cream
3 oz good semi-sweet or dark chocolate
1/2 teaspoon espresso powder
1/4 teaspoon salt

To make the ganache swirl:  In a pourable glass measuring cup, heat the cream for 20 seconds in the microwave till very hot, and add the chocolate.  Let it sit on the counter for a minute allowing the chocolate to melt.  Now whisk it together and add the espresso powder and salt.  Let stand at room temperature.

Whisk together the flour, salt and baking soda and set aside.

Using a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and sugar for 5 minutes at least.  It should be light and fluffy.   Add egg and mix thoroughly, then add vanilla and bourbon and mix another 15 seconds or so.   Slowly add the flour mixture till just mixed in.  Now, turn off the mixer and dump in your toffee and nuts.  Pick up your ganache cup and get ready to pour.  Turn the mixer on its lowest setting and stream in the chocolate ganache.  This toffee mixin/ganache step should only be about a 5-10 second process.  You want the ganache to ribbon through the dough, but not mix fully in and turn the cookie entirely chocolate.  

At this point, you have two options, you can scoop the dough now and bake, just like you would a chocolate chip cookie, OR allow the dough to cure in the fridge for 24-48 hours, which will make it even more delicious and I strongly recommend it.  Should you choose the latter, dump the dough out onto a large piece of parchment paper and form it into a log, rolling it into the paper and twisting the ends to secure.  You could use wax paper or foil here too.

Whenever you are ready to bake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees.   Scoop your cookies, or slice from your log, sprinkle with a few flakes of smoked salt and bake for 9-12 minutes in the center of the oven.  Check them at 9 minutes.  When they are fully set and just barely coloring they are done, but you can also go a few more minutes, if you like a more golden cookie or more crisp edges.

Anniversary in Portlandia

Zack and I recently celebrated our eighth anniversary with an overnight jaunt to Portland.  I always have a long list of places I want to check out there, recommended by friends, articles I've read and the like.  We are never disappointed by the wealth of culinary treasures there and this time was no different.  In fact, it was one of the best.  Here's the rundown.

IMPERIAL

Paley's Place is a Portland institution in fine dining and the Imperial is a recently opened more casual experience by Vitaly Paley, an incredibly well respected chef.  The vibe is loungy.  Pretty dark and moody even at lunch time and definitely hipster, in that upscale sort of way.  I thought it would be a nice lunch, but was completely surprised by how incredibly good each bite was and how much care was put into everything, and an outstanding value to boot.  For instance, the house made Parker house roll, arrives hot and glistening, deep golden brown and salted top with soft butter to slather.  We thought we'd share one but immediately ordered another.  This was our first meal of the trip so we wanted to go easy, opting to share a pilaf stuffed roasted poblano pepper with roasted butternut squash, chestnuts and a walnut cream. ($12)  WHAT?  Ridiculously flavorful.  The vegetables all treated with utmost care to bring out their fullest flavor.  Then, a side of wood fire roasted carrots in a mustard maple vinaigrette. ($6)  These carrots were so good I promptly stated I'd rather be eating them than duck fat french fries.  The cocktails were also excellent, mine a blend of aperol, grapefruit, gin and rose prosecco.  His,  a hearty bourbon cocktail with hickory vermouth.  At $8 each, at least 25% less than the same cocktails cost in Seattle.  The experience was absolutely wonderful and got the trip started off on the VERY right foot.

TORO BRAVO

After an afternoon of nothing much, a little shopping, a little relaxing, it was time to go to Snacky Hour.  Toro Bravo is one of Portlands best loved restaurants, a Spanish tapas spot that is perennially packed.  They don't take reservations and we are not fans of waiting, so when that is the case, we always show up when the place is about to open.  Good thing too!  We were first in line and the place was full in 20 minutes.  Here we shared a few pinxtos - or snacks of just a bite or two each, and a few tapas, snacks of 6-10 bites.  Melted leeks topped with romescu sauce were delicious, as was a sweetly spiced ground lamb with yogurt and flatbread.  Everything was inexpensive - $3 - $9 and delicious.  Cava was the perfect accompaniment.  The menu is so extensive and I look forward to going back again to try more.  

THE WOODSMAN TAVERN

Our "real" dinner reservation was at 7pm so we headed next.  Folks, what a dear dear meal this was to us.  The ambiance of the space is dimly lit, wood paneled and definitely fits the expectation its name creates,   From the first moment they were so welcoming, with absolutely no hint of hipster nonchalance.  They wished us happy anniversary and gave us half pours of champagne for a toast, starting things off beautifully.  The menu is a nod to American classics.  We started with a couple snacks - a single chicken wing, an order of deviled eggs and a beef sausage with mustard.  Each thing was so deeply flavorful we were in a constant state of exclamation.  There was such great and overwhelming care taken with every element.  All sausages and meats (with the exception of a few curated American hams) are butchered and cured and smoked and in all ways made from scratch in house.  With yes, a Portlandia level of care.  We shared shepherds pie for the main course.  How could it be so good?  So many layers of flavor, such deep smokiness to the filling and perfectly cooked vegetables at the same time.  I was deeply challenged as a cook by their care in the details.  I've already seen it influence me, which I think is awesome.

THE NEXT DAY, ON MY MORNING RUN

Our actual anniversary dawned beautifully sunny, just like it was 8 years ago.  I love a morning run on vacation so I was off by 7am leaving Zack to a rare chance to sleep-in.  I started out from our hotel in the Pearl District and headed for coffee.  Sterling Coffee Roasters had been recently recommended.  It's on 21st just a block or so from Ken's Artisan Bakery, so I stopped in their for one of their famous cannelle and jogged it over to Sterling for a cappuccino.  The recommendation was right on.  A beautifully roasted cup of coffee.  Not at all bitter or burnt, but flavorful and nuanced.  I had 2 bites of the cannelle, which was good for sure, but not mind-blowing for me.  The rest fed the birds.  Back on my feet and through the Pearl and over the Hawthorne Bridge, down Ladd and up Division to Little T American Baker.  

This bakery has been winning raves and the baguette is particularly well spoken of.  As it happens, when it comes to bakeries, I'll take a baguette with butter and jam over just about anything else anyway, so I ordered their skinny short version and my second cup of the day and sat down to enjoy.  It was excellent.  Lovely crust and moist crumb.  I was pleased.  I ate some of that and started to wonder where was next.  I looked for bakeries nearby and found one called Le Cookie Monkey a couple miles away.  The reviews were raving and I liked the look of the direction so I headed that way.  Down 26th and Right on Powell and then some random twists and turns and a very odd rickety foot bridge over some railroad tracks and after a time I was at Le Cookie Monkey.  Darn it!  Its only open for special orders, so I wend my way home through some funky streets and along the river, over the bridge and back at the hotel at mile 8.9.  Time to get ready for brunch!

THE COUNTRY CAT

I love Southern diner style food done really really well and that is just what the Country Cat is all about.  It serves brunch every day of the week, which I think is genius.  It's a drive out of the typical tourist area, in the Montavilla area of PDX.  We sat down and ordered a tasty (though much booze!) Bloody Mary and deliberated for a long while on the menu, or rather, I did.   Zack knew immediately that he wanted the Monte Cristo sandwich.  We both have a soft spot for those.  But the 2nd dish was harder.  The BBQ brisket sandwich?  The chicken fried steak?  I settled on the fried chicken with maple bacon spoon bread and greens dressed with maple vinaigrette.  It was good but not great.  The fried chicken didn't have the double crust i prefer and the spoon bread honestly had a strange soggy texture on top.  I'd still go back time and again for that Monte Cristo sandwich - house-smoked ham and turkey, amazing custardy bread and a dousing of maple syrup.  The home fries were shatteringly crisp and served with house made ketchup.  Too legit to quit people.  

We've been to Portland a dozen times in our married life, but this was definitely our favorite trip.  A totally memorable culinary adventure, to say nothing of the very sweet time we had together reflecting on the past year and feeling incredible blessed with where we are at as a couple.  Year 9 includes many things, foremost among them our adoption process, which we actually began in earnest that evening, at our chosen agencies mandatory information meeting.  We're on our way and feel peace and excitement about that.  We are praying that by the next anniversary, there will be a baby Zulie Hubert to love.

A couple other absolute Portland favorites:  Screen Door, DOC, Heart coffee, Baker and Spice Bakery.

Fennel, Apple, Dill & Cheddar Salad with Walnut Vinaigrette

This past week, I attended "Foodie" book club, which was recently begun by my friend Daytona.  The idea is, we read a book that has ties to culinary life in some way, and get together with like minded people to eat dinner and discuss.  At group, we talked about the months book a bit, but mostly we settled in like familiar friends (though most of us had never met) to topics of all things life; backgrounds, relationships, foods, recipes, meals, etc etc.  It was a total delight.

Daytona had asked us to bring foods that represented something about us and where we've come from.  I puzzled about that for awhile.  My culinary "heritage" is a place I find myself very far from these days.  A box of fish sticks and a bag of French fries didn't seem an inspired choice.  Not that I didn't eat well growing up...sometimes.  My Mother had many solid dishes and really introduced me to the kitchen in a loving way that I still treasure, but with five kids and a very tight budget, things were simple.  She made spaghetti, stir fry, swiss steak, homemade pizzas and stroganoff sandwich, to name a few favorites.  But my ideal foods came from a box.  A dream day of eating for me would have been a bowl of Lucky Charms for breakfast, followed by a bowl of Trix for elevenzies, a mayo soaked tuna fish sandwich studded with potato chips for lunch, finished off with a Twinkie.  For dinner, Gino's frozen pizza, followed by Tollhouse cookies (first the dough and then warm from the oven) and ice cream.  I had an appetite for the junkiest of things.  So, as a result, by the age of 19, I was nearly 200 pounds and very unhappy.  One day, enough was enough and I vowed to change.  There is a great deal to the story, spanning many years, but lets just say I did.

As I thought about foods that represent me now, I kept coming back to salad.  The thing is, I bake and cook constantly, but when it comes to every day eating in our home and life, salad looms large.  I have learned to crave and value vegetables and love the creativity of "making up salads" - always heavily influenced by what I'm seeing around me.  I don't look like that girl of 19 anymore.  I temper my love of decadence with a stewardship of my body that I didn't understand back then.  I run often, drink tons of water, eat healthy and thoughtfully 80% of the time, and 20% of the time, I don't fret about it.  I'll never be a stick (and I am finally at peace with that), but I'll never be that 19 year old girl again either.  Here's the salad I brought to book club.  It was delicious.

FENNEL, APPLE, DILL AND CHEDDAR SALAD WITH WALNUT VINAIGRETTE
Serves 4

1 large head fennel, sliced in half, cored and sliced VERY thin, preferably on a mandoline
1 granny smith apple, julienned
1/4 of a red onion, sliced VERY thinly
3 oz Beecher's flagship cheddar, or other great aged cheddar or gruyere, grated
1/2 cup chopped fresh dill
1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley (optional)
1/2 cup toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
Maldon sea salt (optional)

Toss these ingredients together in a medium bowl, with dressing enough to moisten all but be careful not to overdress.  It's nice to toss this salad 15 minutes or so before you eat it.  Finish with some nice flake salt like Maldon.

WALNUT VINAIGRETTE
This recipe is adapted my dear friend Ashley - she taught it in a recent class and I love it.  Note that this recipe makes about 1.5 cups vinaigrette, which would be enough for quite a few salads.  Store in the fridge.

1 cup orange juice

1 small shallot

1/3 cup sherry vinegar

1/3 cup toasted walnuts

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1-2 teaspoons honey

1/2 - 1 teaspoon salt (start with less)

1/2 cup olive oil

Heat the orange juice to a boil in a small saucepan. Reduce to 1/2 cup, then remove from heat and cool.  Toast the walnuts and cool.  Peel and roughly chop the shallot.

Put the reduced orange juice, shallot, sherry vinegar, 1/3 cup of the walnuts, and Dijon mustard in the blender. Season with salt and pepper. Blend at high speed until homogenous.

With the blender running, add the oil slowly. Do not let the blender run too long, as the vinaigrette will break if it gets too warm.

Taste the vinaigrette to adjust the seasoning. Add more salt or pepper if needed. If the vinaigrette is too acidic, add more oil with the blender running. If the vinaigrette gets too thick, thin with a bit of water. 

Chocolate Brownie Cookies

Gramercy Tavern is an iconic New York City restaurant.  I know quite a few people who have eaten there, and everyone puts it well up there in their ranks of best restaurant meals ever.  The desserts alone are worth a visit.  Zack and I ate an caramel apple crisp ala mode there that has never been rivaled by any other.  The caramelized crumble was exactly what we wanted it to be and more.

Last fall I was looking for a recipe for brownie cookies.  I had in my minds eye exactly what you see above.  In my research I came across many recipes, but when I found one from Gramercy Tavern, I knew it was going to be good.  I think its perfect and my brownie cookie cravings have been fully satisfied ever since.

These cookies are kind of like biting into a chocolate bar macaron (the French kind).  Immense chocolate flavor, but a wonderful light crust and slightly chewy interior.  My only significant adaptations to the recipe involve salt.  This much chocolate desperately needs it.  For the past four months, I've been baking these at least every couple weeks.  People just love them.  It recently dawned on me that they are the perfect cookie for sandwiching.  In fact, I'm making them next weekend and sandwiching them with Nutella, for a dear friends birthday.  These cookies definitely have the best texture the day you make them and the batter doesn't keep well.  You'll want to mix them up and bake immediately.  Then, get munching within 2-4 hours for optimum textural enjoyment.  I mean, they still taste amazing days later, but they will be gone by then.  I promise.

CHOCOLATE BROWNIE COOKIES
Adapted The Last Course, The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt (4 times the original amount in the recipe, but definitely important!)

2 large eggs

2/3 cup sugar

1 teaspoon espresso powder

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

7 ounces 60-70% dark chocolate, chopped or use Ghiradelli's 60% chocolate chips

3/4 cup mini chocolate chips (or combination of chips and similarly sized pieces of nut of your choice)

Maldon sea salt (optional, but I always do this)

Preheat oven to 375°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, briefly whip the eggs to break them up. Add the sugar, espresso, and vanilla and beat on high speed for 15 full minutes.

While the eggs are whipping, melt the chocolate and butter in the microwave.  Start with the chocolate ONLY and heat for 1 minute.  Stir with a metal spoon or whisk.  Add the butter and heat for another 45 seconds.  Stir/whisk again.  If not quite melted, give it another 20 seconds or so.  

Gently fold the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture until partially combined (there should still be some streaks). Add the flour mixture to the batter and carefully fold it in. Fold in the chocolate chips. If the batter is very runny, let it rest until it thickens slightly, about 5 minutes.

Using a small or medium (depending on the size you want) levered ice cream scoop, drop the batter onto the prepared baking sheets.  Sprinkle with a little Maldon salt (if you choose) and bake until puffed and cracked, 6-8 minutes (again, depending on size). Cool on a wire rack before removing from the baking sheets.

Breakfast Sausage Corn Dogs with Spiced Maple Syrup Dip

This past weekend, I co-hosted a baby shower for Amy, one of my closest friends who also happens to be an incredible event planner and designer.  The theme of the shower was Sweet and Savory, and the menu was filled with delectables that brought both sensations to the taste buds.  I asked Amy to choose from a long list of ideas and she had some special requests as well.  Months ago, she had brunch one of my favorite Portland restaurants - Screen Door.  It is Southern comfort food at its best.  One of their most popular items is a breakfast sausage corn dog, served dusted with powdered sugar and alongside a thick sorghum syrup.  Well, Amy texted me from the restaurant.  That dish pretty much blew her mind.  She asked me to try to recreate it for her shower.  Never one to miss an opportunity to fry something for someone I love, I immediately agreed.  The results were completely satisfying.  Tangy, sweet apricot breakfast sausages (from my favorite Seattle butcher shop, AJ Meats) dipped in a classic corn dog batter and served with dark maple syrup and a touch of spice.  I served them up in individual little votive holders with the syrup in the bottom.  Tres chic don't you think?

I know frying can be intimidating, but it doesn't need to be.  I promise you its simpler than you imagine and so, so satisfying.  You are guaranteed to please your guests and impress them a little bit too.   I recommend a wide deep pot and a couple tools - a spider utensil (though you don't need it for this particular recipe) and a deep fry/candy thermometer.  I find these helpful for other applications as well.

This same batter would be perfect for regular corn dogs as well, or cheesy hotdog (AJ Meats has some that will make you cry) corn dogs, or Brat corn dogs, or chicken dogs or pretty much any old thing you want to enrobe in crispy fried corn bread.

BREAKFAST SAUSAGE CORN DOGS WITH SPICED MAPLE SYRUP DIP 

This makes 16 individual appetizers, plan on 2 per guest.  You can also leave the sausage whole if you want a less cutesy portion.

8 apricot breakfast sausages (or whatever flavor you enjoy)
3/4 cup flour
3/4 cup cornmeal
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/4 teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon sea salt
1 egg
3/4 cup milk
2 quarts of vegetable or other neutral oil, for frying
16 wooden skewers, about 8" long

1 cup maple syrup
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (or more, to taste)
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Prep sausages:  Saute over medium high heat for 6 minutes, turning every 2 minutes, so they are nicely browned.  They will not be cooked through, but that will finish during the fry.  Allow to cool for 10 minutes and then cut in half crosswise, making two short pieces.  Skewer each through the center.

Maple syrup dip: Whisk together syrup and spices over low heat until just nicely warmed.  Don't allow to boil.

Batter & Frying:   Whisk together the dry ingredients.  Then add the egg and milk and whisk till well incorporated but not much more.  Pour oil into a wide deep pot.  It should come up about 2 inches on the sides.  Add less or more as needed.  Turn burner on high and bring up to 360 degrees, then turn to medium.   Now, you're ready to fry.  Dip your sausages into the corn batter, swirling and dipping to make a nice even coat.  Now drop into the hot oil very carefully, no more than 4 in the pan at any one time.  Use tongs to roll the corn dogs to the other side after a minute or so, and then every 30-60 seconds, to ensure an even brown crust.  Total cooking time is around 4 minutes.  Watch your oil temperature and adjust heat as needed to maintain as close to 360 degrees as possible.  Remove corn dogs and allow to cool for 3-4 minutes before serving.  You can keep them warm in a 200 degree oven while you making the rest, if you wish.

Serve with spiced maple syrup and prepare for moans and eye rolls of delight!
 

Cinnamon Rolls...the quest continues

Long, long ago I spoke to you about cinnamon rolls.  They are one of Zack's favorite things to eat and mine too when I think about it.   I have to admit I've fallen down on the job when it comes to earnestly pursuing the perfect specimen.  This weekend though, I had a breakthrough.

On Thursday, Ashley and I taught a cooking class on Thanksgiving - my favorite holiday - as I've often shared here.  After the class, there were a number of leftover items.  Everyone knows that leftovers are one of the best things about Thanksgiving.  I had a batch of Moravian Lovefeast Bun dough that I'd demonstrated in class.  This is the best dinner roll you will ever eat.  I will not be challenged on this topic.  It is perfection.  Tender, slightly sweet, deep flavor, golden brown.  I also had quite a bit of Gingered Cranberry Sauce.  Fast forward to Saturday and I'm preparing for a party.  On a whim, I decided to make cranberry cinnamon rolls, using the leftover dough and sauce.  The resulting confection was something truly special and I couldn't wait to share it with you.

This dough recipe makes the best cinnamon rolls I've ever made and the second best I've tasted.  (The very best can be had at Skillet Diner, but only on Saturday or Sunday.  I warn you, one of theirs is the size of your head.)  You can use this dough to make classic cinnamon rolls, or doll the whole thing up with cranberry sauce or raspberry jam or carmelized apples, etc etc.  Really whatever you can imagine!  The basis for every good cinnamon roll is the dough, and as I've now said in triplicate, this dough is amazing.  Here is the recipe for my cranberry cinnamon rolls, but just leave out the cranberry for a very classic variation.   I also like to make my glaze with maple flavor (syrup), something I learned from Zack's Mom Suzi.  Maple and cinnamon are perfect companions. 

GINGER CRANBERRY CINNAMON ROLLS WITH MAPLE CINNAMON ICING

For the dough:
1 recipe Moravian Lovefeast bun dough (made the day before use)

For the sauce:
8 ounces fresh or frozen cranberries
2/3 cup dried sweet tart cherries (such as Montmorcey)
2/3 cup sugar
zest and juice of one small orange
⅓ cup minced crystallized ginger
1 cups water

In a large saucepan, combine cranberries (no need to thaw if frozen), cherries, zest, juice, sugar, and water.

Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer for 15 minutes, then add ginger, continue 5-10 minutes more until most berries have burst and liquid is syrupy, 20 to 25 minutes total. Transfer to a bowl, cover and refrigerate.

For the glaze:
1/4 cup melted butter
1/2 cup grade B pure maple syrup (substitute milk here if you want a classic white glaze)
2 cups confectioners sugar
1-2 teaspoons cinnamon (to taste) (or none for classic white glaze)
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

Whisk together until well incorporated and to desired consistancy.  Add a bit of milk for thinner glaze.

For the Assembly
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon cinnamon

1/2 cup butter, room temperature

Mix sugars and cinnamon together in a small bowl.

Butter 9 x 13" glass baking dish.  Remove roll dough from refridgerator and roll out immediately on a well floured board/counter to 1/4 inch thick and a rectangle about 10" tall by 18" long.  Spread entire surface with softened 1/2 cup of butter.  Now spread with cooled cranberry sauce (or not, for a classic cinnamon roll).  Sprinkle with the sugar cinnamon mixture.  Now, roll into a log, from the long side.  Slice in half, then slice each half into half again, and then into thirds, making twelve total rolls.  Place in buttered dish.  Cover with plastic wrap and allow to rise in a warm area until double in size, about 2 hours.  Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Bake in the bottom third of the oven, for 22-25 minutes, until deep golden brown.  Allow to cool for 20-30 minutes, then generously drizzle with the maple cinnamon glaze.

A Week of New York Eats

I am in good company when I say that I love New York.  Many, okay, millions of people agree, it is an epic city.  For those who find food and restaurants of particular interest, it is a magical place, with options from every corner of the globe.  This July, through a wonderful series of fortunate events, I was able to spend five days and nights in New York City with by little brother Andrew and his lovely new bride Melissa.  Our time was a culinary odyssey, with each day jam packed with tastes and ambiance to absorb.  Andrew & Mel join me in being insatiable (when we choose to be) and we never missed an opportunity to try something that intrigued us.  We also virtually never have a full meal in any particular place,  so we aren't too full for the next thing.  New York is also an awesome city to run.  I enjoyed the unusual levels of energies I felt given all this feasting and ran the longest run of my life one morning - from Harlem to Battery Park and back up to Chinatown, nearly 16 miles in all, stopping 3-4 times for a taste or a sip of something lovely.

Rather than write a bunch of reviews or try to pare the trip down to a couple favorites (too hard!), I offer you here a journal of our days.  I've noted the name, (and sometimes linked it) what we ate, a few choice comments, and starred them as follows so you know my recommendations, with a few comments.  There is not a place we went that I would say "Don't go there", because I research and cross-reference the heck out of places before I go, but the stars let you know what I prioritize as best.  I'm writing this blog for your future reference.  It may be a little dry to read now, as its really just a list, but next time you're headed to the Big Apple and you start your research, maybe you'll remember this post and check back.  I hope it can be a resource!

KEY:
*Good, I liked it
**Really, really good
***Highest level, recommended foodie experience

MONDAY
Red Rooster: Harlem soul food by Marcus Samuelson
Eataly***: Charcuterie counter - Mario Batali's department store temple to all things Italian food, hard to know what to actually eat, but just soak it in.
Shake Shack (Madison Square Park location)**: Shake stack burger,  a concrete (like a high-end blizzard) - NYC Classic, really an awesome gooey good burger.
Kin Shop***: Massaman Goat curry, Roast duck with roti, Crispy pork belly and fried oyster salad - the best Thai food I've ever eaten, by chef Harold Dieterle.  Reminded me a bit of Pok Pok in Portland. WOW.

TUESDAY
Francois Payard: Vanilla bean macaron
Sullivan Street Bakery**: Raisin walnut roll - Here, Jim Lahey invented the No Knead bread method so many of us benefit from.  This stop was part pilgrimage.  Simple spot, tons of awesome breads and pastries to take-away.
Economy Candy: Classic Lower Eastside shop to take you back to childhood.
Katz**:  Pastrami on rye - Classic NYC, and it lives up to all the hype.  Amazing sandwich.  Andrew and I having a moment.  Like sister, like brother.

Schiller Liquor Bar: liquid refreshment, hipster spot to stop in the LES for a drink.
Russ and Daughters**: Bagel, scallion cream cheese and Gaspe Nova smoked salmon - NYC Classic
Crif Dogs*: Housemade corn dogs and PBR - This is one of the places that restarted the gourmet hot dog craze.  Better known for the cocktail bar attached, called PDT.
Chickalicious***: Nutella and Red Velvet Cupcakes - There is MUCH disagreement about the best cupcakes in NYC.  I truly believe these must be, as they are the best I've eaten anywhere.  Other-wordly Italian Meringue frosting.  The texture is unreal.
Bar Boulud*: Charcuterie and Pate Platter - Wine bar brought to you by the legendary Daniel Boulud, very sleek ambiance and these were tasty nibbles.
Marea***: Fusilli with red wine braised octopus and bone marrow - This was one of the unforgettable restaurant experiences of my life.  A 2 Michelin star, $$$$ restaurant that graciously let us join them in their dining room for just one dish.  This pasta is a NYC legend and with good reason.

WEDNESDAY
Two Red Hens:  Mini banana cupcake - sweet Upper East Side Bakery, not too far from The Met.
Champagne Bar at the Plaza Hotel*: French 75 - Feels amazing to sit here.  Soak in the history and a taste of old school opulence.

ABC Kitchen** - Roasted Beets with housemade yogurt, Crispy skate salad, Pretzel dusted calamari - Wonderful interior design and delicious fresh food.

Metropolitan Museum: Total bonus, military families get in free!  We spent a very rainy hour or two exploring.
EAT:  Eli Zabars famous lemon meringue cake - You need cake after all that culture.
Cafe Ollin**: Beef Milanese, potato and cactus Chemita, Tacos, Carnitas Sopa - I don't know if you'll find yourself in East Harlem on your travels, but if you do, this is incredible, rustic NON-American Mexican food.


THURSDAY
16 Mile run day - started in Harlem and stopped at the following 3 places on the way to Battery Park.
Joe the Art of Coffee*:  Cappucino - It is hard to find good coffee in NYC.  This is true.  This place is pretty good and pretty great for NYC.
Momofuku Milk Bar: Cereal milk soft serve, Compost cookie - This place is famous but it just didn't do it for me.  The flavors lacked depth and read as just SWEET.  Shocking complaint coming from someone who likes circus peanuts candy mallows, but its true.
Locanda Verde*:  Strawberry jam scone - Open for every meal, love the ambiance and concept.  Current NYC Italian food darling.
Battery Park, rest and turn around, running through Wall Street area back up to Chinatown in search of dumpling.  No cash in Chinatown means, nothing for you to eat!  Headed back to Harlem on the Subway to get ready to go to lunch with Mel & Drew.
Prune**:  English muffin burger, sous chef salad - This postage stamp of a restaurant has a legendary owner and chef named Gabrielle Hamilton.  Her book Blood Bones & Butter is an awesome food and life memoir.  The food was wonderful and it was very special to eat here. 
Balthazar**: Balthazar salad, Blue Point Oysters on the half shell - NYC Classic that takes you straight to Paris.  I always stop here once.
Momofuku Noodle Bar*:  Glazed Pork Belly buns, Corn with cojita, lime and aioli, Momofuku Ramen, A mushroom dish - NYC legend David Chang's first spot.  The first two items were A-MAZing.  The 2nd two did not.  In particular, the ramen lacked depth of flavor in the broth, which is sad given its eponymous nature.  Comfort and ambiance are lacking, but unique, bursting flavors are not, just be careful in ordering.

Stroll across the Brooklyn Bridge to take in an outdoor movie on the other side.  Oops, it started raining.  Oh well!

FRIDAY
Barney Greengrass:  Smoked Salmon, cream cheese, everything bagel - Another classic NYC deli - Upper Eastside - good, but not as good as Russ & Daughters.
Shanghai Cafe**:  Famous soup dumplings, lo mein, pork fried dumplings - This $25 stop provided some of the boldest flavors of the trip.  Love how Asian food so often does that.

Chelsea Market***: This place is chock full of gourmet food purveyors of every kind, like more than 40.  It would be DREAMY to live across the street.
Standard Grill:  Lambrusco and cheese - A brief stop to get out of the pouring rain.  This classic spot is under the High Line and reminded me how good Lambrusco can be.  Would love to go back to try more from the menu.
Frankie's Spuntino**:  House made Brown butter & sage Cavatelli with hot Italian sausage, Burrata with arugula - This place makes just fantastic, simple Italian food.  2nd time here and loved it again.

Magnolia Bakery: Hummingbird cake, cupcakes - This place is the most famous cupcake bakery in NYC and really started the trend, but it is not the best.
A Salt and Battery:  Fried pollock - A famous take-out spot in Greenwich Village run by legit Brits.  Tasty fish & chips.